Asian Needle Ants Pushing Their Way Through The Carolinas

http://www.newsobserver.com/2013/03/17/2751050/make-way-for-6-legged-samurai.html#storylink=misearch

Structural Pest Workshops - Week of March 4th

The NC Pest Management Association is offering structural pest workshops during the week of March 4th. One CCU in P-Phase and one CCU in W-Phase will be offered. The cost for the workshop is $5 for NCPMA members and $25 for non-members. The workshop schedule can be found by visiting the NCPMA website: http://www.ncpestmanagement.org/. Click on the link for "Spring Workshops".

Kudzu Bugs (AGAIN)

We've had two reports (Scotland County and Union County) that kudzu bugs are moving out of soybean fields and congregating on structures, including homes and school buses. This move out of host plants was anticipated but perhaps not this soon. As to why it's happening now is pure speculation, but favorable weather, particularly early this year, likely contributed to this early exodus as the adult bugs head into reproductive diapause.

The kudzu bug's fall movement indoors is very similar to what we've experienced since the 1990’s with the Asian lady beetle. The major difference between the two insects is that the Asian lady beetle is actually beneficial as a biological control agent, chomping down on aphids and other plant-feeding insects. By contrast, the kudzu bug's primary food source (aside from kudzu) happens to be field crops, such as soybeans, where they can significantly impact yield. So, this pest packs a double-whammy for North Carolinians. 

The kudzu bugs’ fondness of soybeans is one reason why we could see significant numbers of them invading homes and other buildings, even in rural areas. In more urban areas, there are plenty of other hosts such as wisteria and privet. The insects are quite mobile; they are capable of catching rides on wind currents, automobiles, trucks, trains and planes. This helps explain why this pest has managed to spread in from north-central Georgia and through most of South Carolina, North Carolina, and Virginia (plus west into Mississippi) in just about 3 years time. 

At this point, we still do not have anything new to report in terms of recommendations to homeowners and businesses as to how they might address this problem. Kudzu bugs are attracted to light-colored surfaces but that certainly doesn't mean that brick buildings or those with dark-colored siding will escape the bug invasion. While most folks want shortcuts and easy solutions, there simply aren't any when it comes to the kudzu bug. The emphasis still has to be on exclusion because chemical control is still only partially effective and relies primarily on directly targeting the insects that are aggregating on surfaces. Preventive sprays are not recommended - because they simply won't be durable enough to last the weeks during which these insects will be actively seeking overwintering sites. If the situation is severe and you decide that pesticides are warranted, you can choose any of the common exterior insecticides labeled for application to buildings. Use targeted treatments of critical areas: windows and door frames, and some soffits. Be sure to read and follow all label directions carefully. Many of the exterior insecticides contain pyrethroid and new label changes restrict where and how the product may be applied.

If large numbers of kudzu bugs make it indoors, simply vacuum them up. The use of pesticides indoors is not warranted and will be largely ineffective in this case.

Again, we stress exclusion - plugging those holes that the bugs can use to enter homes and
businesses - as job #1.

For more information about kudzu bugs, please visit:
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/Urban/kudzubug.htm

West Nile Virus in NC, by Mike Waldvogel

Many of you probably saw or read reports about increased incidences of West Nile Virus across the U.S. with the notable exception of a few states, including North Carolina. However, Wayne County has reported a death attributed to West Nile Virus. At this point, there are only a few details being provided about the person which is to be expected due to health records privacy laws. However, the announcement from the Wayne County Health Director’s office (as reported by the Goldsboro News-Argus) described the victim as “elderly."

Only about 1% of people who become infected develop severe illness, and many people may not become sick at all. In cases of people who do develop symptoms (which takes 3-14 days), many of them may not attribute it to the virus until it becomes severe. Among people that develop severe illness (i.e., excluding those individuals who exhibit minimal or no symptoms), the mortality rate ranges from about 3% to 15%, with the rate being highest among the elderly (as likely the case mentioned above).

West Nile Virus occurs far less frequently in people in North Carolina as compared to other nearby states and it is far less frequent here than other mosquito-borne diseases such as Eastern Equine Encephalitis (EEE) and LaCrosse Encephalitis (LAC). EEE is more common in eastern NC while LAC is found primarily in western NC. Birds are the “amplifying hosts” for the virus, which basically means that infected mosquitoes transmit the virus to birds which are in turn bitten by other mosquitoes which acquire the virus and spread it to even more
birds. Some mosquitoes species feed primarily on birds but the species that will readily feed on both birds and mammals are the ones that pose the risk of spreading the disease to people. The mosquito species that transmit West Nile Virus tend to breed in wastewater
collection areas and stagnating catch-basins. You can also find them breeding where water collects after storms and begins to stagnate with the abundant organic matter present. So, one obvious approach for residents is to make sure that they clear stagnating water sources on their property. It doesn’t matter if this water is on a 1000 acre farm or on a 0.1 acre home lot; water that collects and stagnates has the potential to become a mosquito breeding site. Across most of North Carolina, the Asian tiger mosquito remains our most common pest species and it will exploit similar pools of stagnating water on the ground and in man-made objects.

As I mentioned a few weeks ago, substantial rainfall (as we have seen recently in many areas) is inevitably going to lead to a rise in mosquito activity and the first response by individuals should focus on disrupting those breeding pools rather than worrying about what to spray in their yard. These were some of the particular points I mentioned previously, but they're worth noting again:

• Bird baths - simply flush them out with a garden hose and you flush out the mosquito larvae in the process. Plus, the birds will appreciate the fresh water. For horse owners with water troughs near stalls or out in pastures, one option is to use a product such as "Mosquito Dunks" which contain the bacteria Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis, which kills the mosquito larvae (not the adults). Although you can use them in outdoor water bowls for pets, it is far simpler (and better for your animals) if you “tip and toss” the water from the bowl and replenish it with fresh water *daily*.
• Old cans, tires, etc. - empty them and get rid of them (legally, don't simply toss them along the highway to become someone else’s problem).
• Outdoor flower pots - empty the water from the dishes/trays underneath them. Your plants have plenty of water without the overflow. This also helps reduce fungus gnat problems in the plant soil.
• Remove all of that built-up debris from your gutters. The water and decaying material attract mosquitoes.
• Rain barrels – if you collect water from your gutters or some other system, make sure the barrel is screened to keep out debris and mosquitoes.
• Tarps that cover your boat, grill, firewood, etc. also collect pockets of water that can remain for 1-2 weeks.
• The bed of that '57 Ford pickup that you've been “restoring” for the last 25 years can collect water particularly if the tailgate faces uphill in your yard.
• Kids' pools - if they're not being used by kids, they're probably being used by the mosquitoes (and maybe some toads) – empty them. The same thing applies to pools (in ground or above ground) that aren't maintained (e.g., pools on abandoned or foreclosed properties).
• Drainage ditches - they're meant to collect storm water temporarily. Keep them free of debris so that water flows and has time to filter into the soil.
• Decorative fish ponds can be a source of mosquitoes if they contain a lot of vegetation that provides hiding places for the mosquito larvae. “Mosquito Dunks” are an option here.
• Tree holes - when limbs fall off trees, the remaining hole in the trunk can collect water. Flush that out or put a small piece of a mosquito dunk into it.

Another critical matter – personal protection. The majority of mosquito-borne disease incidences, whether they’re human or equine, are due to a lack of personal protection. Horse owners need to spend the time and money to get their horses vaccinated against EEE. For
us two-legged creatures, we simply need to take precautions when we’re outdoors for work or recreation. If it’s too uncomfortable to wear long-sleeved shirts and long pants, then cover all *exposed* areas of the skin with an insect repellent (see http://insects.ncsu.edu/Urban/repellents.htm). 

A few other important points about using repellents:

• Do not put repellent on skin that will be covered by clothing.
• Children spend a lot of time outdoors, particularly when school is not in session. The greater the amount of time spent outdoors can increase the likelihood of getting bitten by a mosquito (and potentially a higher likelihood of being bitten by an infected mosquito). Before applying a repellent to a child, read the label carefully to make sure that it contains concentration appropriate for use on children.
• When using repellents on children - you should apply the product to your hands and then rub it on their arms, legs, neck, etc. If you allow your child to rub repellent on their arms and legs, they need to wash their hands immediately afterwards because they will inevitably forget and either rub their eyes or stick their fingers in their mouths.

One other point that I mentioned a few weeks ago - mosquitoes have no concept of property lines. They are simply out there looking for a blood meal whether it's you or your neighbor. Mosquito "control" may be a matter of spraying chemicals to reduce the population below
nuisance levels. On the other hand, mosquito *management* is what is often needed. It is a long-term proactive project that requires a community effort in order to succeed.

We have information on mosquito control on the web at
http://insects.ncsu.edu/Urban/mosquito.htm.

Mosquito Activity Will Be Increasing, by Mike Waldvogel

Many areas of the state saw significant rainfall last week and that also means we will see a rise in mosquito activity particularly by the Asian tiger mosquito which takes advantage of those small and often inconspicuous sites around your property that fill with storm water and become prime mosquito breeding sites. So, before people start planning a chemical assault on their yards as the solution to their mosquito problems, they need to start with the simpler and more long-term approach of eliminating "collectibles." I don't mean souvenirs; we're talking about all of those objects that collect and retain rainwater for days or weeks. For example:

• Bird baths - simply flushing them out with a garden hose will flush out the mosquito larvae. Plus, the birds will appreciate the fresh water. For horse owners with water troughs near stalls or out in pastures, one option is to use a product such as "Mosquito Dunks," which contain the bacteria Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis, which kills the mosquito larvae (but not the adults). Although you can use them in outdoor water bowls for pets, it is far simpler (and better for your animals) if you “tip and toss” the water from the bowl and replenish it with fresh water *daily*.

• Old cans, tires, etc. - empty them and get rid of them (legally dispose of them, don't simply toss them along the highway to become someone else’s problem).

• Outdoor flower pots - empty the water from the dishes/trays underneath them. Your plants have plenty of water without the overflow. This also helps reduce fungus gnat problems in the plant soil. 

• Remove all of that built-up debris from your gutters. The water and decaying material attract mosquitoes. 

• Rain barrels – if you collect water from your gutters or some other system, make sure the barrel is screened to keep out debris and mosquitoes.

• Tarps that cover your boat, grill, firewood, etc. also collect pockets of water that can remain for 1-2 weeks. So make sure you check those frequently and dump out any water that has collected on them.

• The bed of that '57 Ford pickup that you've been “restoring” for the last 25 years can collect water particularly if the tailgate faces uphill in your yard. 

• Kids' pools - if they're not being used by kids, they're probably being used by the mosquitoes (and maybe some toads) - so empty them. The same thing applies to pools (in ground or above ground) that aren't maintained (e.g., pools on abandoned or foreclosed properties).

• Drainage ditches - they're meant to collect storm water temporarily. Keep them free of debris so that water flows and has time to filter into the soil.

• Decorative fish ponds can be a source of mosquitoes if they contain a lot of vegetation that provides hiding places for the mosquito larvae. “Mosquito Dunks” are an option here.

• Tree holes - when limbs fall off trees, the remaining hole in the trunk can collect water. Flush that out or put a small piece of a mosquito dunk into it.

Many people ask about treating shrubs in their yard. Mosquitoes will rest in these locations, but whether treating them really "controls" a mosquito problem is difficult to determine depending on the species of mosquitoes most prominent in your area. Similarly, people using outdoor foggers will definitely kill mosquitoes, but depending on the time of day/evening that they use it, they may be missing the peak activity of the most common mosquito species found in their area. Two other issues about using outdoor foggers are important. First, safety is critical. Make sure that you are standing upwind from the direction that you are dispersing the fog and wear appropriate protective equipment to prevent the fog from getting into your eyes and lungs or on your skin. Second, know where the fog is going. Some of your neighbors may not actually want chemicals drifting onto their property (particularly if they're outside eating at the time!). The same applies to the automated misting systems that some people have installed on their homes. From time to time, we get reports of companies that offer “mosquito control” whose response to the question of what they are using is simply that it’s something “safe” or “natural” but they won’t actually tell you what the chemical is. Personally, I would steer clear of a company that isn’t willing to tell you what they are spraying (or propose to spray) on *your* property. You have the right to know the identity of the product and if they won’t reveal it, the NC Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services is very willing to “encourage” them to be forthright about their control program.

One other point to remember - mosquitoes have no concept of property lines. Mosquito management takes a neighborhood effort to be truly effective. We have information on mosquito control on the web at http://insects.ncsu.edu/Urban/mosquito.htm.

Those Darn Ants!

Argentine ants (Photo: Alex Wild).

Okay, so we can all admit that at some point or another, we’ve dealt with accounts where we cannot seem to get a handle on an ant problem. Your customer keeps seeing ants in and around a kitchen or bathroom sink, or other water source.

So let’s run through what might be a typical scenario:

You look around and rule out the presence of a leak or other plumbing issue. You determine that the ants are just after whatever water is in the sink. You spend some timing looking around, but because the ants haven’t established a foraging trail, you can’t figure out how they are getting in.

So you do what you can in this situation – perhaps you make a crack-and-crevice application into any obvious cracks or gaps in an effort to keep the ants out. You recommend that your customer seal up the couple of gaps you found with some caulk or other sealant. You go through your regular spiel about making sure that food is stored properly, garbage is taken out regularly, excess water is wiped up, etc. And you’re done.

Until you get another call about ants from the same account! So, you go back, look around again – this time taking even a little more time to check for potential entry points. You know that for optimal results, you really need to find and treat the source (i.e., the nest). So you go outside and look for a nearby ant nest but find nothing. You watch the ants closely, but never see where they are coming from or going to. So you make another, more thorough crack-and-crevice application into the gaps in the area. You treat a few extra openings that you somehow missed before. And you’re done.

You wish! You get yet another call from the same customer complaining about ants in the same area. So, what can you do now? What is going on?

Well, I can tell you that I’ve had this exact same problem occur at my house – in my kitchen around the sink. And I tried everything that I wrote about above. I checked outside for a nearby nest but found nothing. Since I could find no nest, I realized that my best bet would be to attempt to keep the ants out of my house. So I treated all the obvious gaps with a crack-and-crevice insecticidal spray. I sealed up whatever openings I could see. Yet, I kept getting ants around my kitchen sink. I watched the ants carefully to try and determine exactly where they were getting in. But I could find nothing, because while there were several ants around the sink, there was never a real distinct foraging trail.

Ants recruited and feeding on jelly (Photo: Patty Alder)

Then it hit me: I realized that in order to find the entry point(s), I needed a distinct foraging trail. So I placed a very small dab of apple jelly on a piece of cardboard, placed it on the counter near the ants…. and waited. It didn’t take long – maybe 20 minutes or so – for more ants to show up (see photo at right). 

Pretty soon, I had myself a pretty distinct trail of ants going from my kitchen sink to…. a small opening where the caulk had come out in an area on the counter right behind my sink. (see photos below). A small opening that I had overlooked! So I treated that opening with a crack-and-crevice spray and guess what? No more ants!

Foraging trail can be followed from the jelly down the
window frame (Photo: Patty Alder).

If you have this issue with ants, probably the last thing you want to do is spend even more time at an account! But if you’ve searched for a nest with no luck, then the next best thing you can do for your customer is try to keep the ants out of the house. So spend a little extra time and set out a bit of jelly on an index card in a couple of areas where you are seeing the ant activity. The extra time spent may save you a callback later. Or, if you’ve got a willing customer, ask him or her to set out the jelly about 30 minutes before you are scheduled to arrive. 

Ants were coming in through a gap in the counter behind
the sink (Photo: Patty Alder).

Check for a trail of foraging ants and carefully follow the ants to see if you can determine how they are gaining entry into the area. If jelly does not seem to attract the ants, you could try a small piece of cheese or a potato chip. Once you figure out where the ants are coming in, you can treat that opening with a crack-and-crevice application. You may even want to suggest your customer seal up the opening after it has been treated.

Good luck and happy ant hunting!

Warmer Weather Bringing Out Some Pests, by Mike Waldvogel

Ground-nesting bees. Warm temperatures and the recent rains are promoting a burst of insect activity. We received a call this week from a school system about "swarms" of bees showing up on the school grounds. These are most likely the solitary “digger” bees, particularly andrenid bees. Colletid bees will follow suit within a few weeks. Homeowners often mistake andrenid bees for honey bees because they are similar in appearance, although typically have blackish abdomens and light-yellow hairs. If you're a pest management professional, this is a good point to mention to your office staff who answer the phones because people will start to call about bees swarming all over the yard.

Andrenid bee (Photo by Tony DiTerlizzi)

The bees begin foraging for food and seeking out new nesting sites. This activity will continue for the next 2 months or so depending on the area of the state and the species of bee. The bees dig a vertical tunnel in the soil, particularly in areas where the soil drains well and vegetation may be sparse. They make small side chambers off the main tunnel and provision them with pollen for their offspring. These bees are "solitary" which means there is no true colony which is supported by worker bees. Mating takes place at this time, so a lot of the "swarming" is just males and females trying to pair up (think of your lawn as a big singles bar for solitary bees). The bees frequently make small mounds in the soil, and small clusters of these nests may be seen together, but each mound is all made by an individual female bee. At one school in Raleigh, we’ve had reports of 5 or more nests in just 1 square foot of lawn. The damage can be unsightly with large numbers of mounds in the yard, but it is mostly a cosmetic issue. The bigger problem is usually that people walking by panic because they assume that these are swarms of honey bees (or a similar bee) that will likely attack them if they venture too close to "the nest." Turf-nesting bees can sting but rarely do, so unless you accidentally step or sit on one (which kids might do while playing), they are not likely to sting. Since they are not "social," there is not a large number of worker bees trying to protect a nest. So, there is no "mass attack" as might occasionally occur during a close encounter of the yellowjacket kind (and it's still early in the year for us to see any yellowjacket colonies out there).

These ground-nesting bees are beneficial and should be left alone if possible. Any pesticide that you typically use outdoors for such sites could be applied, but success is likely to be marginal because of the duration of activity. The bees often try to dig into the sand in play areas at schools, childcare facilities, etc., which is a concern particularly for parents and teachers with children that are severely allergic to bee stings. Any chemical treatment in sandy play areas is strongly discouraged because of the contact kids have with the soil (and which they might get in their mouths as well). If the bees try to nest in a sandbox, a simple solution is to cover it during the day but it will take a few weeks for you to deter most of the bees that show up over time. While this isn't always successful, you could saturate the area with soapy water which will bring the bees out and probably kill some in the process since soap does work as an insecticide. Since the bees prefer well-drained areas, water-staturated soils will deter the bees but again we're looking at activity that can take place over a few weeks.

Information, including pictures, of these bees and the "damage" that they cause can be found at:

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/Insects/O&T/lawn/note100/note100.html

Mosquitoes. A lot of people have asked about mosquitoes and the warm weather. The mosquitoes that we’ve seen active on warm days are species that overwinter as adults and respond to temperature. In most of NC, our major problem is the Asian tiger mosquito which passes the winter in the egg stage and requires a combination of factors, including the presence of water, temperature (water and air temperature) and day length. So, we still have time before Asian tiger mosquitoes are active. However, this is a good time of the year to add some "habitat modification" tasks to your list of spring chores:

• Get rid of (or repair) those objects that collect water. Fix tarps covering boats, cars, etc. so they don't collect water.
• Clean out your gutters (which trap water and leaf and organic debris that attract mosquitoes).
• Clean out drainage ditches in front of your property. They're meant to catch and drain run-off, not become breeding pools for mosquitoes.

And you really need to convince your neighbors to do the same because mosquito control will be more effective when the entire community is involved.

For more information on mosquitoes and their control, please see our fact sheet:

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/Urban/mosquito.htm#list