New Pyrethroid Label Requirements (for Non-Agricultural Outdoor Pyrethroid Products)

In an effort to reduce the potential for runoff and drift that can result from applications of pyrethroids, the EPA has revised the “Environmental Hazard Statements” and general “Directions for Use” sections for pyrethroid non-agricultural outdoor products. Pyrethroids include pesticide products such as “Talstar” (bifrenthin), “Tempo” (cyfluthrin), “Suspend” (deltamethrin), and others. The EPA revisions also apply to “combination products” such as: “Temprid SC,”  and “Transport WDG and “Transport ME.” The new requirements also apply to consumer end pyrethroid-containing pesticides, such as “Ortho Home Defense Max” (bifenthrin), Bayer Advance Home Pest Control (cyfluthrin), and others.

The new environmental hazard statements are specific for different formulations (i.e., liquid, dust, granular, and ready-to-use products). The general “Directions for Use” included in this labeling initiative are considered to be best management and good stewardship practices.

Let's take a look at some of the new changes:

• Requirements for Granular Formulations labeled or intended for outdoor residential uses: 

o   “Apply this product directly to the lawn or garden area. Water treated area as directed on this label. Do not water to the point of run-off.”

o   “Do not make applications during rain.”

• Requirements for Liquid, Dust, and Ready-to-Use Formulations products labeled or intended for outdoor residential uses:

o   “Do not water the treated area to the point of run-off.”

o   “Do not make applications during rain.”

• Additional Application Restrictions For General Outdoor Surface and Space Sprays, except for outdoor fogging devices:

o   “All outdoor applications must be limited to spot or crack-and-crevice treatments only, except for the following permitted uses: 

(1) Treatment to soil or vegetation around structures;

(2) Applications to lawns, turf, and other vegetation;

(3) Applications to building foundations, up to a maximum height of 3 ft.

Other than applications to building foundations, all outdoor applications to impervious surfaces such as sidewalks, driveways, patios, porches and structural surfaces (such as windows, doors, and eaves) are limited to spot and crack-and-crevice applications only.”

Although the label changes do not apply to turf (such as athletic fields and golf courses), these new label changes will affect the way you conduct pest management using pyrethroids. The one restriction that will probably impact your usual pest management techniques the most is the limitation of structural sprays to impervious surfaces. If you need to do a perimeter treatment, you are still allowed to apply the product up the foundation wall (to a maximum height of 3 feet) and on the soil and vegetation around the building. The major change applies to outdoor applications to impervious surfaces like sidewalks, driveways, windows, doors, and eaves. For example, in an area where a driveway meets a garage door, you are limited to either a spot treatment (an area no larger than 2 square feet) or a crack-and-crevice treatment in that area because both areas (the garage door and the driveway) are considered impervious surfaces. 

Most likely, if you're applying an exterior perimeter spray, you're dealing with a pest like ants, millipedes, ladybird beetles, or another equally persistent pest. In those cases, a crack-and-crevice application to those impervious structural surfaces like garage doors, windows, eaves, etc., will provide the most benefit anyway, as those areas are often points of entry for these pests. So, here's the good news: if you follow the new label requirements, you'll be using the product in a more efficient manner and the potential for runoff will be reduced. A win-win situation! 

Insect of the Week - The Snowflea

Snowflea, Hypogastrura nivicola (Photo: Tom Murray)

What in the world is a snowflea? Are they fleas that only appear when it snows? Are they fleas that are white in color? Snowfleas are not fleas at all, but are actually a type of insect called a springtail. Springtails are primitive, wingless insects that can leap long distances using their tail (called a furcula). They are tiny insects, ranging in size from 0.04 to 0.2 inch long. Springtails are one of nature's decomposers; they feed on algae and decomposing vegetable matter, bacteria and fungi. As a result of their feeding habits, springtails are generally found in damp places, such as in leaf litter and mossy areas.

Homeowners sometimes discover these insects in large numbers in swimming pools, potted plants, around damp building foundations, or in moist soil and mulch. Springtails are primarily a nuisance pest; they do not bite or transmit disease, but may invade buildings in times of dry weather or heavy rains. They may also breed indoors in areas of high humidity that occur near leaks and cracks to the exterior.

Springtail, showing furcula (Photo: Patty Alder)

Snowfleas are a species of dark blue springtail, Hypogastrura nivicola. They are one of those oddball insects that may remain active in the winter and can be found hopping about on snow banks when the temperature is as low as 20 degrees. Their tiny bodies contain a unique, antifreeze protein that prevents them from freezing during sub-zero temperatures. There are hopes that similar proteins may be useful for storing transplant organs.

Check out the video below to see the snowflea "in action!"

Unwanted 'Presents' Under And On The Christmas Tree - by Michael Waldvogel and Patricia Alder

Most of us are familiar with aphids which are the small, often greenish colored insects that feed on a wide variety of plants. They leave the deposits of sugary honeydew on foliage that attract ants. Aphids have piercing-sucking mouthparts that they use to pierce and suck the juices out of plants.

Cinara conifer aphids (Photo: Whitney Cranshaw)

Cinara aphids (i.e., in the taxonomic genus Cinara) are among the largest aphids. They are 1/8"-1/4" in length and their bodies vary in color from green to brown to black and many have distinct markings. Most aphids are wingless but at various times of the year, winged individuals will appear within a given generation.

The Cinara aphids are also called "Cinara conifer aphids" because they attack a wide variety of conifers (pines, spruces, firs, etc.) and are typically species specific, i.e., a particular species of Cinara aphid will attack a particular species of conifer.

So, why are we talking about aphids now? We don't tend to see aphids in the winter, right? That's mostly true, but many of us have already or will be purchasing Christmas trees this holiday season, and guess what? These aphids are commonly found on Christmas trees. Once the tree has been decorated and is sitting in the living room near the warmth of the open fire where you've hung your stockings with care, the aphids become active and will often drop from the branches and onto the floor, gifts, cat, etc. that are beneath the tree. People often wonder if these aphids bite. Fortunately, you have nothing to worry about, unless you're a Fraser (not "Frasier") fir.

So what do you do if you end up having these unwanted critters on your Christmas tree? Just vacuum them up, but don't suck up that ugly dough ornament that your kid made in the 2nd grade; he/she will never forgive you for it even though you've been looking for an excuse to trash it. Don't squash the aphids, as they may leave a purplish stain.

As for spraying pesticides - if you "Google" 'Cinara', you'll stumble across a publication on another NCSU website (not mine) that suggests setting off a fogger in the room or spraying the affected tree with any common household insecticide (after unplugging lights and any electric ornaments). I have had a discussion with the author previously about this advice because I think fogging will not kill the aphids on a decorated tree and spraying the branches with 'Raid', 'Enforcer', etc. is a bad idea. Why? Who is likely to come into contact with those lower treated branches (and now-contaminated ornaments) - little kids and pets (admit it, you've all seen a cat hack up a hairball with tinsel in it, not to mention the glimmering dog poo in the backyard).

A colleague of mine has pointed out an instance (not in NC) where a homeowner became irate at finding these aphids streaming off of his tree. He dragged the tree out of his house and in the process, injured himself. Yes... he sued the Christmas tree grower (and probably the poor guy who operated the sales lot near his house).  And yes… he was successful! As a result, my colleague recommends treating the trees. That’s fine for her to recommend to the growers but I have extreme reservations about certain types of treatments for trees that are being used indoors as Christmas trees (as I mentioned above).

We’ve seen plenty of such inane lawsuits, but if you feel you must spray something, use insecticidal soap. You can buy one of the commercial products such as "Safer" brand. You can try making your own batch using a liquid soap or even a pure Castille soap. Mix one teaspoon in a quart of water and apply it in a spray bottle. Do not use one of those extra strength, grease-cutting detergents because they might discolor the tree needles. And yes... the obvious - unplug the lights before spraying and let everything dry before turning the lights back on. Even if you use the soap solution, the effectiveness will likely be limited by the amount of decorations that you have on the tree that quite obviously impede the dispersal of the spray.

If all else fails, just remember that this is temporary (the aphids will leave when the tree does). Try to ignore the aphids, drink some 1000 calorie egg-nog with or without alcohol (the latter will help with ignoring bugs on the Christmas tree) and you should enjoy the holiday quite nicely!

Green Pesticides, Natural Pesticides: What Are They and Do They Work?

The term "green" has become a big buzz-word in the pest management industry. So what exactly is a green or natural pesticide? Green or natural pesticides are pesticides derived from substances found in nature. These may include pesticides derived from inorganic minerals - like boric acid, limestone, and diatomaceous earth - as well as pesticides derived from botanicals, such as pyrethrum and limonene. Today, more than ever, people are concerned about the impacts traditional, synthetic pesticides may have on the environment. So it's easy to see why people want to use green pesticides.

What you need to know is that while many green "spray" pesticides work on contact, they have little to no effect once they dry. In other words, they don't persist in the environment for very long; that's part of what makes them "environmentally friendly!" So if you're using a natural or green spray pesticide, for best results, you need to spray the bug directly. This is okay if you're dealing with an occasional cricket, ant, or other insect that wonders in. But in some cases, you may need to use a pesticide that persists a little longer.

Some of the naturally derived dusts, such as boric acid and diatomaceous earth, do have a long-lasting effect (if they are not displaced after application). But NEVER use pool grade diatomaceous earth; it is an inhalation hazard and should only be used for swimming pools. To be sure you're using the right product, only use pesticides registered with the EPA. And you should always use caution when applying dusts. Follow the label instructions carefully and always wear gloves and a dust mask. Indoors, dusts should be applied in cracks & crevices and voids, NOT along baseboards or other open places. Many dusts can be applied outdoors as well, but again, follow the label instructions. To avoid drift, never apply dust in windy conditions. 

Many of the synthetic pesticides also have longer residual activity. There are certain instances when it's necessary to use a pesticide that will persist in the environment for some time. For example, with pests like bed bugs, which spend most of their time hiding in cracks and crevices, a longer-lasting pesticide will most likely be necessary. After all, how can you spray bed bugs directly with a green pesticide if you never see them?

Really, it's a delicate balancing act. So, here's my advice when it comes to using pesticides, whether it be green or synthetic:

• First, take steps to eliminate potential food and water sources, limit harborage areas, and pest-proof buildings to keep pests out.
• Use insect baits preferentially over other pest management products (when dealing with roaches and ants). 
• "Green" spray insecticides can be used as contact sprays to apply directly to insects.
• "Green" insecticidal dusts can be used in cracks & crevices and voids. Always apply dust in a thin, even manner - don't dump it in piles - insects will actually avoid piles of dust. 
• If you deem it's necessary to use a conventional, synthetic pesticide, ALWAYS read and follow the label instructions carefully. Try to limit your applications to cracks & crevices and avoid broadcast applications indoors. This will limit the potential risk of exposure to you and your family. 
• If you're having a severe problem, for example with cockroaches or bed bugs, considering hiring a pest management professional. They will have the expertise and training necessary to effectively manage pests. If you need help selecting a pest control service, see our fact sheet: Tips on Selecting Pest Control Services.

In general, green pesticides are less toxic than conventional, synthetic pesticides. But as with ANY pesticide, green pesticides can be toxic if not used properly. Just because the active ingredient is "all natural," it's not okay to use more or in areas not listed on the label. Always read and follow label instructions, regardless of what type of pesticide you choose.

Insect of the Week - The Camel Cricket

Camel cricket
(Photo: David Cappaert, Michigan State University)

Camel crickets are one of those insects that are just so icky to me! The crickets are so-named because of their slightly hump-backed appearance. Adults are 1"-1.5" long. Their long legs give them a creepy, spider-like appearance. Interestingly, camel crickets do not "sing" or "chirp" like most other crickets do. And unlike other crickets, camel crickets do not have wings as adults.

Camel crickets are usually associated with cool, damp, dark places. Outdoors, they can be found under stones and logs, in stacks of firewood or other debris, or in leaf litter. Areas that are overgrown with thick vegetation, such as ivy and other ground cover provide excellent hiding places. Camel crickets often inhabit moist, humid areas in and around our home, such as crawlspaces, basements, garages, and other indoor areas where moisture may be a problem. A telltale sign of a heavy infestation is the presence of dark fecal smears on surfaces (such as on the floor joist in the picture below).

Like other crickets, camel crickets will invade buildings in the fall seeking suitable places to pass the winter. In these cases, they often remain in basements or crawlspaces and seldom damage items in the home. Although they are mostly a nuisance pest, camel crickets can damage stored items, such as garments and linens packed in boxes in a garage or basement, if the problem goes unchecked for some time and the crickets cannot find suitable food.

Controlling camel crickets.
Because moisture is such an important requirement for camel cricket survival, reducing the number of moist habitats is essential for good, long-term control. Doing what you can to prevent crickets from entering the structure is also important. Following a few simple steps can accomplish both strategies and will go a long way in effectively controlling these crickets.

• Keep weeds and tall grass next to the building mowed.
• If possible, keep mulch, thick ground covers, and shrubs away from the foundation wall.
• Store lumber, fire wood, and other wood piles away from the foundation.
• Make sure windows have screens that fit properly and are not torn.
• Install weather-stripping around all doors and windows.
• Seal small openings on the outside of the home with caulk.
• Install screen on crawlspace and dryer vents.
• Make sure crawlspaces and basements are properly ventilated to reduce moisture.
• Any boxes stored in basements or garages should be stacked away from the wall. If possible, stack the boxes on pallets.
• Camel crickets that make their way inside can be vacuumed up, squashed (yuck), or placed outdoors.
• If you have a cat or dog, they may take care of the camel cricket for you; mine always do!

Protecting Yourself From Bed Bugs When Traveling

Traveling this holiday season? Worried about the possibility of bringing bed bugs back home with you? Fear not! There's no need to be paranoid about bed bugs. However, it is a good idea to be informed and aware. Know what to look for and how to avoid bringing those unwanted hitchhikers home. Before I get into ways to protect yourself from bed bugs, I think it's important that you know a few facts about them:

• Bed bugs DO NOT fly, jump, or burrow into the skin. Bed bugs CRAWL. 
• Bed bugs are great hitchhikers. They easily crawl onto or into luggage, backpacks, clothing, secondhand furniture, etc. 
• Bed bugs don't discriminate. They don't care what color you are, where you live, or how much money you have. If you have blood, they will feed on you. 
• Bed bugs feed primarily at night. They tend to hide in cracks & crevices while they are not feeding. If you are seeing bed bugs during the day, it usually means there is a big infestation. Or you may be seeing a bat bug. If you're not sure, try to collect a sample for identification by a professional. 

Now, let's talk about some ways you can protect yourself from bringing bed bugs home. First, always take a little time to look around the area where you'll be sleeping. Whether it's a hotel room, a condo, a rental home, or even your friend or family's home, take a few moments to do a quick inspection. What do you look for when you're performing an inspection? All kinds of icky stuff, like:

Photo: www.bedbug.me

• Live and dead bed bugs. Adult bed bugs are about 3/16" (about the size of an apple seed), and reddish-brown in color. If they have not eaten recently, bed bugs are flat and broadly oval in shape. Once they have eaten, bed bugs swell and become longer (see photo at right). Bed bugs do not have wings and cannot fly. 
• Shed bed bug skins. In order to grow, an immature bed bug as to shed its old skin. The cast skin will be in the shape of a bed bug but it will be empty and transparent.
• Fecal stains (a.k.a. bed bug poop), which may be seen in and around areas bed bugs are hiding (see photo below).
• A less frequent sign would be reddish colored blood spots on mattresses and bed linens that result after an engorged bed bug is crushed. 

Mattress with bed bugs and fecal stains.

When performing your inspection, start by looking at the mattress, as this is where bed bugs most commonly hide. Remove the sheet and mattress cover, looking carefully along the seams, tufts, and edges of the mattress. Pull the mattress back so you can also take a look at the box springs.

Strip the bed completely to look for bed bugs or signs of bed bugs.
Look carefully at the seams and tufts of the mattress and box springs.
(Photo: http://membracid.wordpress.com)

Next, look carefully around the area where the bed is attached to the wall and around the headboard. The headboard is usually attached to the wall in hotels. If you can, use a flashlight to get a better look at the crack between the headboard and the wall.

Closely examine the area where the bed is attached
to the wall and the area around the headboard.
(Photo: http://membracid.wordpress.com)

Don't forget to check the closet area. Look carefully at areas where racks attach to the wall. 

Look inside the closet where the rack is attached to the wall.
(Photo: http://membracid.wordpress.com)

Don't put your suitcase or other items on the bed or upholstered furniture. Keep your suitcase on a luggage rack instead. But always check the luggage rack for bed bugs before placing your suitcase on it. 

Keep suitcases, backpack, computer bags, etc. off
of beds, sofas, and chairs. Use a luggage rack instead.

Another level of protection might be a luggage liner. These liners are available for purchase online. When they are zipped up, they prevent bed bugs from getting onto your clothing or other items in your suitcase. They do not, however, prevent bed bugs from getting on the exterior of your suitcase.

Use luggage liners to help keep bed bugs out of your suitcase.
Put things that you buy on the trip in sealable plastic bags.

In addition to the suitcase liners, dissolvable luggage bags are available online. Store items you've worn in these bags so they can easily be thrown into the wash once you return. Alternatively, you can keep the clothing you've worn in sealable plastic bags and keep them there until you have a chance to wash them. Just remember to remove your clothing from the bags before washing them if you're not using the dissolvable bags. Another great tool in your defense against the bed bug is the dryer. Placing clothing in the dryer on the highest setting for 30 minutes will kill all stages of bed bugs. Just be careful not to overload the dryer. Otherwise, the heat may not be distributed among the clothing at hot enough temperatures and you may be left with some survivors. And always take time to carefully examine your suitcase before bringing it inside. The garage is a great place to do this. 

Those of you with kids that will be coming home from college may want to take some time to check their suitcases, backpacks, laptop bags, etc. before dumping everything inside. Bed bugs have been found in college dormitories throughout North Carolina. This doesn't mean your child's dorm is infested with bed bugs, but it certainly doesn't hurt to look over items before bringing them inside. 

If you are a pest management professional and have accounts at schools and/or colleges, be aware that students may inadvertently bring bed bugs back to school from their holiday travels. Talk with school/college administrators and just make them aware of this possibility and have a plan of action should you need it. 

As I stated earlier in this post, there is no need to spend your holiday season being paranoid about getting bed bugs. You are now armed with some ways to protect yourself against bed bugs when traveling. So, go eat, drink, and be merry - and have wonderful bed bug free holiday season!

Insect of the Week - Syrphid Flies

Before moving on to this week's insect, let's first reveal last week's mystery insect. All the images of the insects shown in last week's post were flies. That's right, flies!

The fly shown below is a deer ked (Lipoptena depressa), which is a type of Hippobiscid fly. These flies are external parasites that feed on the blood of birds and mammals. Highly specialized claws help them cling to the hair or feathers of their particular host species. Deer keds have wings when they emerge from their puparium, but lose their wings once they find a host.

Photo: Alex Wild (www.alexanderwild.com)

Most of us have seen a house fly (Musca domestica) more times than we'd like, but I bet you haven't seen one emerging from it's puparium. That's what's happening in the photo below. Pretty cool, huh?

Photo: Alex Wild (www.alexanderwild.com)

Many species of flies use their wings for communication. The Ulidiid fly pictured below sports both pigmented spots - visible in the wing silhouetted by the flower petal - and rainbow reflections, visible in the wing against the dark background. Ulidiid flies are sometimes referred to as picture-winged flies because many of them have patterns of bands or spots on the wings. Flies have only two wings as an adult; the hindwing has been reduced to small knobs, called halteres. In the photo below, you can clearly see the haltere, which is the small knob-like structure seen behind the forewing.

Ulidiid fly (Photo: Alex Wild, www.alexanderwild.com)

Adult hover fly visiting a flower
(Photo: Alex Wild, www. alexanderwild.com)

Now on to this week's insect - the syrphid fly. The other two images seen on last week's post were both photos of syrphid flies. These flies are also commonly referred to as hover flies or flower flies. As the common name suggests, adult hover flies can often be seen hovering or "nectaring" at flowers.

Syrphid flies are a large group of medium to large flies, ranging from 1/4 to 3/4 inch long. Most adult syrphid flies are black or brown with yellow banded abdomens and body markings (see photo at left). Many have dense hair covering the body surface. At first glance, these flies often resemble bees and wasps. However, syrphid flies have only two wings, while bees and wasps have four wings. Also, flies have very short antennae that may be difficult to see; the antennae of bees and wasps is longer and more conspicuous.

A predatory syrphid fly larva feeding on an aphid
(Photo: Alex Wild, www.alexanderwild.com)

Syrphid flies are beneficial insects, especially in the garden. Adults feed on the nectar and pollen of flowers, and pollinate plants. The larvae of some species are predaceous, feeding on aphids and other soft-bodied insects (see photo at right).