The Buzz About Paper Wasps

Common paper wasp (Polistes spp.)
Photo:  Russ Ottens, Univ. of Georgia

The cooling weather will soon bring an end to activity for Polistes or paper wasp colonies. There are

several species of paper wasps, but the common ones are brown in color with yellow stripes on their abdomens. The workers (who will die soon), along with next year's crop of queens, are starting to bail out of their nests. The surviving queens will seek out some place to pass the winter. All too often our houses, and other structures, become the location of choice.

You may begin seeing wasps outdoors hovering about the eaves and soffits on warm afternoons. At some point, the wasps may make their way indoors, and things can get more exciting. The wasps are often seeing moving about slowly and bouncing off windows, ceilings, light fixtures, etc. Cold weather seems to stop the activity, but quite likely on subsequent warm days you will find wasps flying about indoors or again spot them outside around the roof area.

A few things to keep in mind:

First - seeing the wasps does not mean that there is a nest in a wall; however, there may be a nest outdoors on a roof overhang, under a porch, in/on a tree or some other protected area.

Second - since these are queens looking for overwintering sites and not workers defending a nest, they are not aggressive and so stinging incidents are rare unless you have a "close encounter of the Polistes kind," such as I had when I laced up my running shoe one morning only to discover that a wasp had crawled inside there during the night.

Third - spraying indoors is an exercise in futility because there simply isn't a specific target area you can treat. Spraying the exterior of the building also has limited value because there are so many gaps accessible to the wasps.

Best advice: keep a rolled-up newspaper handy. Be patient; let the wasp land then smack it.

For further information about paper wasps, check out:

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/Other/note144/note144.html

http://insects.ncsu.edu/Urban/paperwasp.htm

Kudzu Bugs on the Move Again

Kudzu bugs aggregating on structure searching for 

overwintering sites (Photo:  Dan Suiter, Univ. of Georgia)

Kudzu bugs will soon be moving out of soybean fields, which means you may begin seeing them aggregating on or inside structures. The kudzu bug's fall movement indoors is very similar to what we've experienced since the 1990’s with the Asian lady beetle. The major difference between the two insects is that the Asian lady beetle is actually beneficial as a biological control agent because it feeds on aphids and other plant-feeding insects. By contrast, the kudzu bug's primary food source (aside from kudzu) happens to be field crops, such as soybeans, where they can significantly impact on yield. The kudzu bugs fondness for soybeans is one reason why we could see significant numbers of them invading homes and other buildings, even in rural areas. In more urban areas, there are plenty of other hosts, such as wisteria and privet. The insects are quite mobile; they are able to catch rides on wind currents, as well as automobiles, trucks, trains, and planes. This helps explain why this pest has managed to spread in about 4 years from the north-central Georgia to most of South Carolina, North Carolina and on into Virginia (plus west into Mississippi).

At this point, we still do not have anything new to report in terms of recommendations as to how to address this problem. Kudzu bugs are attracted to light-colored surfaces but that certainly doesn't mean that brick buildings or those with dark-colored siding will escape the bug invasion. While shortcuts and easy solutions would be nice, there simply aren't any.

The emphasis still has to be on exclusion because chemical control is only partially effective and relies primarily on targeting the insects that are aggregating on surfaces. Preventive sprays are not recommended because they simply won't be durable enough to last the weeks during which these insects will be actively seeking overwintering sites. If you feel a treatment is required, stick with targeted treatments of critical areas: windows and doorframes, soffits, and eaves. If you choose to treat using a pyrethroid insecticide, remember to follow new label requirements. For the latest label changes, visit:  http://www.epa.gov/oppsrrd1/reevaluation/environmental-hazard-statment.html.

For more information about the kudzu bug, please visit our website: http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/Urban/kudzubug.htm

Rains Will Lead to Mosquito Activity, by Mike Waldvogel

The warming temperatures and recent spate of heavy rains will lead to increased mosquito activity in the next week. Before people start planning their chemical assault on the biting menaces, they can put a reasonable dent in populations simply by engaging in some "Tip and Toss" (which has nothing to do beer and watching TV). Our most common mosquito pest is the Asian tiger mosquito which takes advantage of water-filled objects as breeding sites. So, now is a good time to correct problems before you start hearing that familiar buzz of mosquitoes in your ear when you're sitting outdoors in the evening:

• Empty or (preferably) get rid of those objects that collect water - old cans, tires, and trash cans missing their lids.
• Put fresh water in bird baths and pet water bowls (both will be grateful for the new water!).
• The purpose of your rain gutters is to collect rain water, not pine needles, leaves, and other debris. Remove debris from your gutters and make sure water runs freely through through them. And make sure rainwater doesn't just splash and pool at the end at downspout. Make sure it drains out into your yard.
• Likewise, drainage ditches in front of your property are not meant to become "mosquito swimming pools." Clear them of debris and vegetation so that they don't impound water and let it stagnate.
• If you're going to collect rainwater to save for watering your gardens, make sure you have a screen over the top of the rain barrel to keep out debris and mosquitoes that are hunting for a good playing to lay eggs.

Pass along these suggestions to your neighbors as well because mosquito control takes a community effort to truly succeed.

You can find these details and more information about mosquito control on our website:http://insects.ncsu.edu/Urban/mosquito.htm

Ground Nesting Bees, by Mike Waldvogel

For those of you who answer pest questions:

You may start getting calls soon from people seeing either small mounds of soil in their yards or reporting "swarms" of bees. Schools and child care facility managers often panic because they think these are swarms that pose a health risk to the children. However, they are most likely the solitary bees such as the "colletids" and "andrenids" that often emerge this time of year.

The bees begin foraging for food and seeking out new nesting sites. This activity will continue for about the next two months, depending on the area of the state and the species of bees. They dig vertical
tunnels in the soil on which they make small side chambers where they provision pollen for their offspring. These bees are "solitary," which means there is no true colony. A lot of the "swarming" that
you see are males and females attempting to pair up and mate (tell people to think of their lawn as a big singles bar for bees). The bees frequently make small mounds in the soil, often where the soil is loose and vegetation may be sparse. You frequently see clusters of these nests, but each nest is made by an individual queen which does the work without the help of workers as occurs in a honey bee nest.

Although the damage can be unsightly with large numbers of mounds in the yard, it is mostly a cosmetic issue. The bigger problem is usually that people walking by panic because they assume that these are swarms of honey bees (or a similar bee) that will likely attack them if they venture too close to "the nest." Turf-nesting bees can sting but rarely do so, since they are not "social" and you don't have a large number of worker bees that trying to protect a nest. There is no "mass attack" as might occasionally occur with a close encounter of the yellowjacket kind (and it's still early in the year
for us to see any yellowjacket colonies out there).

These solitary bees are beneficial and should be left alone if possible. If customers want something done, you can apply almost anything that you typically use outdoors for perimeter treatments. One problem is that the bees often try to dig into the sand in play areas at schools, childcare facilities, etc. Of course, parents and teachers are concerned about stinging incidents, particularly if a child (or teacher) is hypersensitive to bee stings. In those instances, I still strongly discourage any chemical treatment, particularly in sandy play areas where kids come into direct contact with the soil (and which they might get in their mouths as well). However, facility managers have to weigh the safety of children (and staff) and the misinterpretation by the public of ignoring the problem as meaning they lack concern about the children.

If the bees try to nest in a sandbox, a simple solution is to cover it during the day but it will take a few weeks for you to deter most of the bees that show up over time. While the tarping approach isn't always successful, wider areas can be saturated with plain or soapy water which will bring the bees out. Since soap will work as an insecticide to some extent, it may kill some of the bees in the process but I still consider this preferable over the use of conventional insecticides IF people are unwilling to simply ignore the problem. The water-logged soils will hopefully deter the bees but again we're looking at activity that can take place over a few weeks.

Information, including pictures, of these bees and the "damage" that they cause can be found at:

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/Insects/O&T/lawn/note100/note100.html

Asian Needle Ants Pushing Their Way Through The Carolinas

http://www.newsobserver.com/2013/03/17/2751050/make-way-for-6-legged-samurai.html#storylink=misearch

Warmer Weather Bringing Out Some Pests, by Mike Waldvogel

Ground-nesting bees. Warm temperatures and the recent rains are promoting a burst of insect activity. We received a call this week from a school system about "swarms" of bees showing up on the school grounds. These are most likely the solitary “digger” bees, particularly andrenid bees. Colletid bees will follow suit within a few weeks. Homeowners often mistake andrenid bees for honey bees because they are similar in appearance, although typically have blackish abdomens and light-yellow hairs. If you're a pest management professional, this is a good point to mention to your office staff who answer the phones because people will start to call about bees swarming all over the yard.

Andrenid bee (Photo by Tony DiTerlizzi)

The bees begin foraging for food and seeking out new nesting sites. This activity will continue for the next 2 months or so depending on the area of the state and the species of bee. The bees dig a vertical tunnel in the soil, particularly in areas where the soil drains well and vegetation may be sparse. They make small side chambers off the main tunnel and provision them with pollen for their offspring. These bees are "solitary" which means there is no true colony which is supported by worker bees. Mating takes place at this time, so a lot of the "swarming" is just males and females trying to pair up (think of your lawn as a big singles bar for solitary bees). The bees frequently make small mounds in the soil, and small clusters of these nests may be seen together, but each mound is all made by an individual female bee. At one school in Raleigh, we’ve had reports of 5 or more nests in just 1 square foot of lawn. The damage can be unsightly with large numbers of mounds in the yard, but it is mostly a cosmetic issue. The bigger problem is usually that people walking by panic because they assume that these are swarms of honey bees (or a similar bee) that will likely attack them if they venture too close to "the nest." Turf-nesting bees can sting but rarely do, so unless you accidentally step or sit on one (which kids might do while playing), they are not likely to sting. Since they are not "social," there is not a large number of worker bees trying to protect a nest. So, there is no "mass attack" as might occasionally occur during a close encounter of the yellowjacket kind (and it's still early in the year for us to see any yellowjacket colonies out there).

These ground-nesting bees are beneficial and should be left alone if possible. Any pesticide that you typically use outdoors for such sites could be applied, but success is likely to be marginal because of the duration of activity. The bees often try to dig into the sand in play areas at schools, childcare facilities, etc., which is a concern particularly for parents and teachers with children that are severely allergic to bee stings. Any chemical treatment in sandy play areas is strongly discouraged because of the contact kids have with the soil (and which they might get in their mouths as well). If the bees try to nest in a sandbox, a simple solution is to cover it during the day but it will take a few weeks for you to deter most of the bees that show up over time. While this isn't always successful, you could saturate the area with soapy water which will bring the bees out and probably kill some in the process since soap does work as an insecticide. Since the bees prefer well-drained areas, water-staturated soils will deter the bees but again we're looking at activity that can take place over a few weeks.

Information, including pictures, of these bees and the "damage" that they cause can be found at:

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/Insects/O&T/lawn/note100/note100.html

Mosquitoes. A lot of people have asked about mosquitoes and the warm weather. The mosquitoes that we’ve seen active on warm days are species that overwinter as adults and respond to temperature. In most of NC, our major problem is the Asian tiger mosquito which passes the winter in the egg stage and requires a combination of factors, including the presence of water, temperature (water and air temperature) and day length. So, we still have time before Asian tiger mosquitoes are active. However, this is a good time of the year to add some "habitat modification" tasks to your list of spring chores:

• Get rid of (or repair) those objects that collect water. Fix tarps covering boats, cars, etc. so they don't collect water.
• Clean out your gutters (which trap water and leaf and organic debris that attract mosquitoes).
• Clean out drainage ditches in front of your property. They're meant to catch and drain run-off, not become breeding pools for mosquitoes.

And you really need to convince your neighbors to do the same because mosquito control will be more effective when the entire community is involved.

For more information on mosquitoes and their control, please see our fact sheet:

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/Urban/mosquito.htm#list

Unwanted 'Presents' Under And On The Christmas Tree - by Michael Waldvogel and Patricia Alder

Most of us are familiar with aphids which are the small, often greenish colored insects that feed on a wide variety of plants. They leave the deposits of sugary honeydew on foliage that attract ants. Aphids have piercing-sucking mouthparts that they use to pierce and suck the juices out of plants.

Cinara conifer aphids (Photo: Whitney Cranshaw)

Cinara aphids (i.e., in the taxonomic genus Cinara) are among the largest aphids. They are 1/8"-1/4" in length and their bodies vary in color from green to brown to black and many have distinct markings. Most aphids are wingless but at various times of the year, winged individuals will appear within a given generation.

The Cinara aphids are also called "Cinara conifer aphids" because they attack a wide variety of conifers (pines, spruces, firs, etc.) and are typically species specific, i.e., a particular species of Cinara aphid will attack a particular species of conifer.

So, why are we talking about aphids now? We don't tend to see aphids in the winter, right? That's mostly true, but many of us have already or will be purchasing Christmas trees this holiday season, and guess what? These aphids are commonly found on Christmas trees. Once the tree has been decorated and is sitting in the living room near the warmth of the open fire where you've hung your stockings with care, the aphids become active and will often drop from the branches and onto the floor, gifts, cat, etc. that are beneath the tree. People often wonder if these aphids bite. Fortunately, you have nothing to worry about, unless you're a Fraser (not "Frasier") fir.

So what do you do if you end up having these unwanted critters on your Christmas tree? Just vacuum them up, but don't suck up that ugly dough ornament that your kid made in the 2nd grade; he/she will never forgive you for it even though you've been looking for an excuse to trash it. Don't squash the aphids, as they may leave a purplish stain.

As for spraying pesticides - if you "Google" 'Cinara', you'll stumble across a publication on another NCSU website (not mine) that suggests setting off a fogger in the room or spraying the affected tree with any common household insecticide (after unplugging lights and any electric ornaments). I have had a discussion with the author previously about this advice because I think fogging will not kill the aphids on a decorated tree and spraying the branches with 'Raid', 'Enforcer', etc. is a bad idea. Why? Who is likely to come into contact with those lower treated branches (and now-contaminated ornaments) - little kids and pets (admit it, you've all seen a cat hack up a hairball with tinsel in it, not to mention the glimmering dog poo in the backyard).

A colleague of mine has pointed out an instance (not in NC) where a homeowner became irate at finding these aphids streaming off of his tree. He dragged the tree out of his house and in the process, injured himself. Yes... he sued the Christmas tree grower (and probably the poor guy who operated the sales lot near his house).  And yes… he was successful! As a result, my colleague recommends treating the trees. That’s fine for her to recommend to the growers but I have extreme reservations about certain types of treatments for trees that are being used indoors as Christmas trees (as I mentioned above).

We’ve seen plenty of such inane lawsuits, but if you feel you must spray something, use insecticidal soap. You can buy one of the commercial products such as "Safer" brand. You can try making your own batch using a liquid soap or even a pure Castille soap. Mix one teaspoon in a quart of water and apply it in a spray bottle. Do not use one of those extra strength, grease-cutting detergents because they might discolor the tree needles. And yes... the obvious - unplug the lights before spraying and let everything dry before turning the lights back on. Even if you use the soap solution, the effectiveness will likely be limited by the amount of decorations that you have on the tree that quite obviously impede the dispersal of the spray.

If all else fails, just remember that this is temporary (the aphids will leave when the tree does). Try to ignore the aphids, drink some 1000 calorie egg-nog with or without alcohol (the latter will help with ignoring bugs on the Christmas tree) and you should enjoy the holiday quite nicely!

NCSU Researchers Help Solve Terrible Hairy Fly Mystery

Terrible hairy fly,Mormotomyia hirsuta (Photo: AFP/Getty Images)

This summer, researchers Brian Wiegmann and Warren Booth at NCSU helped solve the mystery of the terrible hairy fly. Read article for News & Observer below for all the details:

http://www.newsobserver.com/2011/10/31/1608280/test-results-its-the-terrible.html#storylink=misearch

Cool Weather Brings Not-So-Cool Pest Problems

By Mike Waldvogel and Patricia Alder


Fire Ants
Moist soils and warm weather have made conditions suitable for fire ant mounds to pop up in various places. In most cases, there is still plenty of time to bait the ants. If someone has fire ants in locations that pose an imminent hazard to the public (e.g., playgrounds, school grounds, etc.), then a mound drench may be the best course of action. Any of the common pyrethroids labeled for turf will work. If there is concern about children coming into contact with the chemical, you can flatten the mound after it's been treated and the chemical has soaked down below the soil surface. Untreated soil can then be placed on top of the treated area. If the mounds are in less critical areas, stick with using baits.

It's also important to remember that your options for treatment are often limited by the target site of application. There are many more products available for lawns and similar areas as compared to field crops, vegetables, and pastures (depending on the type of animals grazed). For that reason, Steve Bambara, recently retired Extension Specialist from NCSU, developed a program that you can use to select fire ant products based on application site and application preference (e.g., liquids vs. baits vs. granular insecticides). The program is accessible online: http://insects.ncsu.edu/fireant-products.

Check our information about fire ants:
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/O&T/lawn/note145/note145.html
http://insects.ncsu.edu/Urban/ifa.htm

Kudzu Bugs

Kudzu bug (Photo: Phillip Roberts, Univ. of GA.)

This is a relatively new pest that feeds on kudzu (but not enough to wipe it out). Unfortunately, it also favors soybeans and some other legumes where it has actually caused yield losses. Kudzu bugs are 4 - 6 mm long, somewhat oblong in shape, and olive-green colored with brown speckles. So far this year, it's been found in over 55 counties on kudzu and soybeans. On the homeowner side of things, this critter can be a significant nuisance when temperatures drop and days grow shorter. Like another well-known nuisance, the Asian lady beetle, the kudzu bug has the habit of invading homes while it seeks out somewhere to rest its legs (all six of them) and pass the winter. We've already heard of some complaints in Union County where the bugs have invaded homes. This has mostly been rural areas with homes adjacent to soybean fields (and likely some kudzu). There is no real effective chemical control to stop the invasion. So, be prepared for a lot of frustrated callers. For more information about the kudzu bug, check out this fact sheet: http://insects.ncsu.edu/Urban/kudzubug.htm.

Multi-colored Asian Ladybird Beetles

Multi-colored Asian ladybird beetle
(Photo: Bill Ree, Texas A&M Univ.)

Most of us have probably encountered this insect by now. Adult multi-colored Asian ladybird beetles are convex in shape and about 1/4” long. Specimens from higher elevations are larger than those from the Piedmont and Coastal Plains. There are usually ten black spots on each forewing, but some have fewer spots or faded spots and some have no spots at all.

As temperatures start to drop in the fall, adult beetles begin to search for suitable overwintering sites. They tend to congregate on the sunnier or warmer sides of buildings, or on exposed, light-colored buildings. Of course, this doesn’t mean that people with dark-colored siding, brick or log homes are immune to the lady beetle assault. On warm winter days, the beetles may become active and move towards light or bright surfaces. They are often found on windows, light fixtures and ceilings.

Ladybird beetles are primarily a nuisance. They do not eat wood or furniture. However, the beetles may stain fabric and painted surfaces if squashed. In addition, there have been concerns that large numbers of beetles may possibly cause air quality problems indoors that could trigger allergies and/or asthmatic reactions.

While it is not 100% effective, preventing the beetles from entering structures is one of the best long-term approaches for dealing with ladybird beetles. Recommend that clients install tight-fitting sweeps on exterior doors and weather stripping around door frames. Openings where utility pipes and wires enter the foundation and siding should be sealed. Make sure that window screens are in good condition. Indoor sprays tend to be ineffective against ladybird beetles. Invading beetles should simply be vacuumed up. The vacuum bag should be sealed up and disposed of. Outdoors, a residual spray insecticide applied around windows, doors, eaves, soffits, attic vents, etc. may provide temporary relief.

For more information on ladybird beetles, click here:
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/Other/goodpest/note107.html

Brown marmorated stink bug

Brown marmorated stink bug
(Photo: David R. Lance,  USDA)

The brown marmorated stink bug was first detected in North Carolina in the Winston-Salem area in 2009. Adult brown marmorated stink bugs are slightly larger than 1/2” and vary in color from brown to gray. Adults have characteristic brown and white bands on the outer edge of the thorax, and white and brown banding on the next to last antennal segment. 

In the fall, adult brown marmorated stink bugs aggregate on and inside houses, sheds and other structures in search of an overwintering sites. The bugs can give off a characteristic odor if they are crushed or disturbed.

Just as with ladybird beetles, exclusion goes a long way in preventing brown marmorated stink bug invasions. Make sure exterior doors have tight-fitting sweeps, seal openings where utility pipes and wires enter the foundation, and make sure window screens are in good condition. The use of pesticides indoors for controlling the brown marmorated stink bug is not warranted; invading stink bugs should be removed with a vacuum cleaner. Outdoors, a residual spray applied around windows, doors, soffits, attic vents, and other potential entry points may provide some relief.

For more information on the brown marmorated stink bug, check out our fact sheet:
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/O&T/trees/note148/note148.html

 
Paper Wasps

Treatment of a paper wasp nest
(Photo: Patty Alder, NCSU)

Adult paper wasps are about ¾” to 1” long and reddish brown to dark brown in color with yellow stripes on the abdomen. Paper wasp colonies are annual; workers die off in the fall and only inseminated queens survive. The surviving queens are often seen hovering around chimneys and rooflines as they search for a suitable place to spend the winter. On warm winter days, the queens may become active and may move into living areas of the home through openings such as heating vents, baseboards, and gaps around light fixtures. Wasps that invade homes can be controlled mechanically, by swatting or vacuuming, or with an aerosol insecticide. Openings through which wasps can enter the structure should be caulked or sealed. In homes, attic vents should be properly vented to exclude overwintering queens. If a paper was nest poses a hazard, use a Wasp & Hornet spray that will propel the insecticide about 10-15 feet and direct the spray into the nest opening for 5-10 seconds.

More information about paper wasps can be found here: http://insects.ncsu.edu/Urban/paperwasp.htm.

Spiders

Yellow garden spider
(Photo: Ronald F. Billings,
Texas Forest Service)

At this time of year, many of the orb-weaving spiders are very conspicuous. Among those prominent species is the yellow garden spider, Argiope aurantia, which is the distinctively colored (black and yellow), large spider that is frequently seen in gardens, yards and along walls typically near lights or "flyways" where moths and other flying insects are likely to travel and get snared. The female builds a web that has a conspicuous zig-zag band of white silk in the center of the web. For this reason, these spiders are often called "writing" spiders. People often assume that because of the bright colors that this spider is particularly dangerous, which is true if you're a moth. If callers ask about what they should do about the spider, tell them to thank it for catching stuff that probably is laying eggs in the fall garden or eating other plants in the yard. Suggest that they just leave them alone to do their job. Since fall is often a time of yard work and cleanup before the winter, people are out moving debris, firewood, etc. and encounter spiders. You may see black widow spiders and a host of other spiders out there. Any spider with a marking on its back usually gets declared to be a brown recluse and in North Carolina about 99.99% of the spiders sent to us as brown recluses are in fact, fishing spiders, cellar spiders and wolf spiders. If people want to know about control, the best choice is to leave the spider alone to eat critters that folks equally dislike. When working outside and particularly if you're moving debris and items that haven't been disturbed in several days/weeks, take simple precautions like wearing long pants and gloves (and of course your other clothes so as not to upset your neighbors). Check out our note: http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/Other/note137/note137.html

Snakes
Fall is also the time when our no-legged friends start seeking out shelter. From my experience under and around houses, most of the snakes that people encounter are black rat snakes. Juvenile black rat snakes have distinct color patterns that immediately send people into a frenzy because they believe it's a copperhead. And they're not about to stop to look at the shape of the head or eyes before they beat it to death or cut into pieces with a shovel. Although black rats can bite (I can attest to that personally), they are more inclined to move away from a fight. There will be encounters with copperheads, and one wildlife management company recently pulled three juvenile copperheads from under a porch. As leaves start to drop, it's not unusual for the snakes to go unnoticed in leaf piles, under debris and under logs. Startled snakes will strike and bite. Copperhead bites are not typically fatal (of course "not typically" isn't much comfort to people!) but the bite can land you in the ER and potentially an overnight stay in the hospital. Obviously, children, the elderly, and other folks who might have health-related issues are more likely to have the more severe reactions to a bite. The secret to avoiding snake bites? Avoid snake bite opportunities. Follow the same advice about work clothing appropriate for encounters with spiders.

Chimney Swifts
Cold weather means people will be stoking the fires in the fireplace soon and so it's a good idea safety-wise to make sure their chimney is in good working condition. This includes making sure they don't have a build-up of soot and creosote or have cracks in their chimney/flue. Another unwanted item is the nests of chimney swifts. These birds often drive people crazy when they hear the chirping coming from their fireplace and they proceed to burn logs to drive the birds out. Chimney swifts are protected by the Migratory Bird Treaty Act, which means that while nesting in your chimney, you are not allowed to kill/disturb them. And of course that is not something most people want to hear particularly now because their is a bed bug relative that on some occasions may drop down the chimney and show up indoors. That's not meant to scare people and cause them to go to extremes like setting off foggers in their fireplace or starting fires to drive out the birds. At this point of the year, the birds have already bailed out of the nests. So tell your local clients that NOW is the time to clean their chimney to remove the nesting material and/or put a screen cap on their chimney to prevent the birds from building nests next year. A good chimney cap will also keep out other unwanted visitors in search of a home - namely raccoons and opossums. If you think the birds are a problem, try serving an "eviction notice" next year to a mother raccoon that decided your chimney was an ideal home.

Storm-related Pest Problems

With Hurricane Irene headed to the NC coast, expect the possibility of an increase in pest problems following the storm. For a brief look at some pest problems you may encounter and ways to manage some of these pests after the storm, please click HERE.

Kudzu Bug Update

When cooler weather finally shows up, we usually expect calls about boxelder bugs and Asian lady beetles moving indoors. Most of you have probably read about two other pests that exhibit the same behavior. Those of you that service accounts in the northern counties (or Virginia and Tennessee) will see the infamous brown marmorated stink bug. 

Kudzu bug (Photo: Phillip Roberts, Univ. of GA)

At the other end of the state and down throughout SC and GA, we have the 'kudzu bug' (Megacopta cribraria), which feeds on both kudzu and soybeans. As soybeans mature and dry out, the bugs will likely make their move to nearby areas, including homes.

The following link will show you the latest (August 2011) distribution map for the kudzu bug:

http://insects.ncsu.edu/Urban/pdf/KudzuBug-southeast-August2011.pdf

This doesn't mean you will definitely run into the kudzu bug, but this is a good time to plan ahead. Make sure your techs and office staff are aware of the pest. Dr. Dan Suiter at the University of Georgia has a publication about this pest:

http://www.caes.uga.edu/applications/publications/files/pdf/C%20991_1.PDF

If you do get calls about either the kudzu bug or the brown marmorated stink bug, please email Mike Waldvogel (mike_waldvogel@ncsu.edu) or Patty Alder (patricia_alder@ncsu.edu).

RAIN IS A WELCOME TO MANY PESTS TOO!

Termites

The recent rains have triggered termite swarms. We have recently seen three distinct swarms in Umstead State Park in Raleigh. Most of the swarming activity that callers are likely to see takes place outdoors, which is simply a reminder that termites are around us outdoors. It's a good reminder to all of us that if you haven't inspected your house for termites in a number of years, this might be a good time to get it done. 

For those 'do-it-yourself' folks, we recommend that they look carefully for termite shelter ("mud") tubes on foundation walls and piers. They need to check the wood along the top of the foundation looking carefully for tubes and/or damage. This often means pulling back insulation to inspect.

We also let folks know of their other option, which is to get a pest control company to inspect their house. There is a lot of confusion about what pest control companies can/cannot tell potential customers. If there is no evidence of termite activity, a pest control inspector cannot tell someone that they "need" to have their house treated. On the other hand, if it's been 10+ years since the house was last treated, then the company might "suggest" a treatment as a way of protecting a major investment. Obviously, it is a matter of personal choice as to how important an individual thinks the treatment is in terms of protecting one of their most important investments.

In instances where people have termite contracts with pest control companies, some companies have a clause in their contract that allows them to require retreatment of the home after some interval (usually 5 years). This clause applies whether or not there are signs of termite activity. So, advice to the public is simple and the same as any other contract they sign - READ IT CAREFULLY. 

Click HERE for more information about termites.

Mosquitoes

The rains will also leave behind water sources that can produce mosquitoes. While puddles of water will dry up, the major concern will be for all of those items people may have on their property: buckets, old tires, flower pots with dishes underneath, tarps covering boats and other items, and even tree holes. Remind people to "Tip and Toss" - tip the item to drain the water and toss the items that aren't needed.

Click HERE for more information about mosquitoes.

Fire Ants

Also, if you live in an area where fire ants are a problem, don't be surprised if you see mounds popping up. We've seen this same situation where dry summer conditions reduce surface activity but significant rainfall often affords the ants the opportunity to form mounds from what was previously very hardpacked soils.

Click HERE for information about fire ants around homes, pastures and other areas.