Welcome to NC Urban Pests, a blog for North Carolina's urban pest management industry and related audiences.
Friday, May 24, 2013
Cockroaches Quickly Lose Sweet Tooth To Survive
http://www.wral.com/cockroaches-quickly-lose-sweet-tooth-to-survive/12478379/
Friday, May 10, 2013
Rains Will Lead to Mosquito Activity, by Mike Waldvogel
The warming temperatures and recent spate of heavy rains will lead to increased mosquito activity in the next week. Before people start planning their chemical assault on the biting menaces, they can put a reasonable dent in populations simply by engaging in some "Tip and Toss" (which has nothing to do beer and watching TV). Our most common mosquito pest is the Asian tiger mosquito which takes advantage of water-filled objects as breeding sites. So, now is a good time to correct problems before you start hearing that familiar buzz of mosquitoes in your ear when you're sitting outdoors in the evening:
Pass along these suggestions to your neighbors as well because mosquito control takes a community effort to truly succeed.
You can find these details and more information about mosquito control on our website:http://insects.ncsu.edu/Urban/mosquito.htm
- Empty or (preferably) get rid of those objects that collect water - old cans, tires, and trash cans missing their lids.
- Put fresh water in bird baths and pet water bowls (both will be grateful for the new water!).
- The purpose of your rain gutters is to collect rain water, not pine needles, leaves, and other debris. Remove debris from your gutters and make sure water runs freely through through them. And make sure rainwater doesn't just splash and pool at the end at downspout. Make sure it drains out into your yard.
- Likewise, drainage ditches in front of your property are not meant to become "mosquito swimming pools." Clear them of debris and vegetation so that they don't impound water and let it stagnate.
- If you're going to collect rainwater to save for watering your gardens, make sure you have a screen over the top of the rain barrel to keep out debris and mosquitoes that are hunting for a good playing to lay eggs.
Pass along these suggestions to your neighbors as well because mosquito control takes a community effort to truly succeed.
You can find these details and more information about mosquito control on our website:http://insects.ncsu.edu/Urban/mosquito.htm
Thursday, April 11, 2013
Spring Insect Invaders
Paper Wasps. Paper wasps (Polistes sp.) are long-legged, reddish brown to black insects with slender spindle-shaped abdomens. They may have differing degrees of yellowish or brown striping. Paper wasps can become a problem in the fall as the inseminated queens invade homes in search of overwintering sites. But paper wasps can also become a problem in the spring. As temperatures begin to climb, queens that spent the winter in structures become active and fly about. If they have been resting in an attic, wall void or crawlspace, the wasps may be attracted to light coming through a gap in the baseboard or a wall fixture, or around an AC vent and emerge inside the building. Since there are no nests or young to defend, the only real danger of being stung is from accidentally stepping on or pressing against one.
Most heavy outbreaks occur in the early spring, especially around heavily fertilized lawns. The mites may invade homes and can leave a reddish-brown stain if crushed.
Control. An 18”-24” grass and weed-free zone around the structure’s perimeter can greatly reduce the number of invading clover mites (Figure 2). In addition, treating a 5-10 foot wide area of ground along the foundation, as well as an 18-24 inch wide vertical band of the foundation wall with an appropriately labeled residual liquid insecticide can help.
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| Figure 1. Use an aerosol insecticide to destroy a paper wasp nest (Photo: Patty Alder) |
Control. Queens that are found indoors may simply be swatted or vacuumed. If a queen does manage to get outdoors and start a nest, a broom may be all that is needed to knock it down. If a wasp nest has had some time to grow and is considered to be a hazard, they are most easily destroyed in the evening with an aerosol insecticide that is labeled for "hornets or wasps" (see Figure 1).
Clover Mites. Clover mites are occasional invaders that can become a problem in early spring. They are tiny (1/30-inch long), red to reddish-brown, oval-shaped mites. Clover mites, as do other arachnids, have 8 legs. They hold the front pair of legs straight out in front of the head. Many people actually mistake this pair of legs for antennae. Clover mites do not bite nor do they burrow under the skin. They are strictly plant feeders. Hosts include grasses, clover, and dandelion, to name a few.
Most heavy outbreaks occur in the early spring, especially around heavily fertilized lawns. The mites may invade homes and can leave a reddish-brown stain if crushed.
Control. An 18”-24” grass and weed-free zone around the structure’s perimeter can greatly reduce the number of invading clover mites (Figure 2). In addition, treating a 5-10 foot wide area of ground along the foundation, as well as an 18-24 inch wide vertical band of the foundation wall with an appropriately labeled residual liquid insecticide can help.
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| Figure 2. Placing gravel around the structure can help prevent clover mite invasions (Photo: Mike Waldvogel) |
Many plants are actually unattractive to clover mites, including geranium, marigold, zinnia, salvia, rose, chrysanthemum petunia, juniper, spruce, yew and barberry. Planting these non-attractive plants in the weed-free zone will help reduce the number of clover mites around the structure. You may also contact their county Cooperative Extension Center for advice on proper fertilization of your lawn.
The application of insecticides indoors for clover mites is not warranted. Simply use a vacuum cleaner to collect any mites found indoors. Care should be taken not to crush the mites. The vacuum bag should be sealed in a disposable plastic bag before throwing it away.
Kudzu and Brown Marmorated Sting Bugs. We will most likely start to see an increase in the activity of kudzu bugs and brown marmorated stink bugs as well. The stink bugs have a broad host range and are often found on Paulownia (empress tree), Ailanthus (tree of heaven), and crabapple among others, but at this point in the year (particularly in western NC) those host plants have little foliage and cooler weather has kept the bug activity down. And so, a lot of this current activity is simply a response to the warmer temperature and you'll see the insects on non-host sites, such as house siding, cars, etc. Kudzu bugs will be aggregating on almost anything and so you will see them on wisteria and other plants (even if there isn't much foliage), houses, early-planted beans in people's gardens, etc. But even on plants with foliage the insects will simply be hanging out rather than feeding.
Control. Treating the exterior of buildings with a spray insecticide using products containing pyrethroids (such as bifenthrin) may provide termporary relief, but don’t expect any long term relief. There's a big difference between "killing" individual bugs and "controlling" a population of them when these bugs are essentially a "moving target" in terms of where and when they'll show up. In spring, the situation is different than it is in the fall. In the fall, these insects are searching for a way to get into buildings in order to survive the winter. Now, their attention is focused on heading to the great outdoors in search of food and potential mates. So, spraying aggregations (e.g., clusters on a wisteria plant) will kill a bunch of bugs, but more are likely to show up later.
We have information for residential settings at:
http://insects.ncsu.edu/Urban/kudzubug.htm
Boxelder Bugs. Adult boxelder bugs are about 1/2-inch long, black with orange or red markings, including three stripes on the area right behind the head. Their wings lay flat over their bodies, overlapping each other to form an ‘X’ (Figure 3). The immature nymphs are 1/16th-inch long and bright red when they first hatch. As they grow and become larger, they become red and black. You can potentially see all stages at any given time during the summer.
Adult boxelder bugs emerge from their overwintering sites in March and early April and feed for about 2 weeks before mating. These insects prefer sunny areas and, therefore, are found most abundantly on trees in a southern exposure and on sides of buildings facing south. The boxelder bug population increases rapidly from middle July to early September.
Boxelder bugs have unusual feeding preferences. Because these insects feed primarily on boxelder and maple seeds, the insects are found on the ground beneath female trees in the early summer before the seeds start to develop. The bugs move into the trees once seeds begin to form. These insects are cannibalistic, particularly when the victim is molting, and they have been reported to feed on other dead or dying insects.
Control. The most permanent solution to a boxelder bug problem is the removal of female boxelder trees from an area, although in most cases this will not be practical or desirable. Outdoors, a pesticide application around the exterior of structures may help reduce the number of invading boxelder bugs. Preventing boxelder bugs from getting into the structure is key. Caulk or otherwise seal any openings the bugs may be using to get indoors. Bugs that enter the home may simply be vacuumed up.
The application of insecticides indoors for clover mites is not warranted. Simply use a vacuum cleaner to collect any mites found indoors. Care should be taken not to crush the mites. The vacuum bag should be sealed in a disposable plastic bag before throwing it away.
Kudzu and Brown Marmorated Sting Bugs. We will most likely start to see an increase in the activity of kudzu bugs and brown marmorated stink bugs as well. The stink bugs have a broad host range and are often found on Paulownia (empress tree), Ailanthus (tree of heaven), and crabapple among others, but at this point in the year (particularly in western NC) those host plants have little foliage and cooler weather has kept the bug activity down. And so, a lot of this current activity is simply a response to the warmer temperature and you'll see the insects on non-host sites, such as house siding, cars, etc. Kudzu bugs will be aggregating on almost anything and so you will see them on wisteria and other plants (even if there isn't much foliage), houses, early-planted beans in people's gardens, etc. But even on plants with foliage the insects will simply be hanging out rather than feeding.
Control. Treating the exterior of buildings with a spray insecticide using products containing pyrethroids (such as bifenthrin) may provide termporary relief, but don’t expect any long term relief. There's a big difference between "killing" individual bugs and "controlling" a population of them when these bugs are essentially a "moving target" in terms of where and when they'll show up. In spring, the situation is different than it is in the fall. In the fall, these insects are searching for a way to get into buildings in order to survive the winter. Now, their attention is focused on heading to the great outdoors in search of food and potential mates. So, spraying aggregations (e.g., clusters on a wisteria plant) will kill a bunch of bugs, but more are likely to show up later.
We have information for residential settings at:
http://insects.ncsu.edu/Urban/kudzubug.htm
 |
| Figure 3. Boxelder bug adults and nymphs (Photo: Whitney Cranshaw) |
Adult boxelder bugs emerge from their overwintering sites in March and early April and feed for about 2 weeks before mating. These insects prefer sunny areas and, therefore, are found most abundantly on trees in a southern exposure and on sides of buildings facing south. The boxelder bug population increases rapidly from middle July to early September.
Boxelder bugs have unusual feeding preferences. Because these insects feed primarily on boxelder and maple seeds, the insects are found on the ground beneath female trees in the early summer before the seeds start to develop. The bugs move into the trees once seeds begin to form. These insects are cannibalistic, particularly when the victim is molting, and they have been reported to feed on other dead or dying insects.
Control. The most permanent solution to a boxelder bug problem is the removal of female boxelder trees from an area, although in most cases this will not be practical or desirable. Outdoors, a pesticide application around the exterior of structures may help reduce the number of invading boxelder bugs. Preventing boxelder bugs from getting into the structure is key. Caulk or otherwise seal any openings the bugs may be using to get indoors. Bugs that enter the home may simply be vacuumed up.
Monday, March 18, 2013
Ground Nesting Bees, by Mike Waldvogel
For those of you who answer pest questions:
You may start getting calls soon from people seeing either small mounds of soil in their yards or reporting "swarms" of bees. Schools and child care facility managers often panic because they think these are swarms that pose a health risk to the children. However, they are most likely the solitary bees such as the "colletids" and "andrenids" that often emerge this time of year.
The bees begin foraging for food and seeking out new nesting sites. This activity will continue for about the next two months, depending on the area of the state and the species of bees. They dig vertical
tunnels in the soil on which they make small side chambers where they provision pollen for their offspring. These bees are "solitary," which means there is no true colony. A lot of the "swarming" that
you see are males and females attempting to pair up and mate (tell people to think of their lawn as a big singles bar for bees). The bees frequently make small mounds in the soil, often where the soil is loose and vegetation may be sparse. You frequently see clusters of these nests, but each nest is made by an individual queen which does the work without the help of workers as occurs in a honey bee nest.
Although the damage can be unsightly with large numbers of mounds in the yard, it is mostly a cosmetic issue. The bigger problem is usually that people walking by panic because they assume that these are swarms of honey bees (or a similar bee) that will likely attack them if they venture too close to "the nest." Turf-nesting bees can sting but rarely do so, since they are not "social" and you don't have a large number of worker bees that trying to protect a nest. There is no "mass attack" as might occasionally occur with a close encounter of the yellowjacket kind (and it's still early in the year
for us to see any yellowjacket colonies out there).
These solitary bees are beneficial and should be left alone if possible. If customers want something done, you can apply almost anything that you typically use outdoors for perimeter treatments. One problem is that the bees often try to dig into the sand in play areas at schools, childcare facilities, etc. Of course, parents and teachers are concerned about stinging incidents, particularly if a child (or teacher) is hypersensitive to bee stings. In those instances, I still strongly discourage any chemical treatment, particularly in sandy play areas where kids come into direct contact with the soil (and which they might get in their mouths as well). However, facility managers have to weigh the safety of children (and staff) and the misinterpretation by the public of ignoring the problem as meaning they lack concern about the children.
If the bees try to nest in a sandbox, a simple solution is to cover it during the day but it will take a few weeks for you to deter most of the bees that show up over time. While the tarping approach isn't always successful, wider areas can be saturated with plain or soapy water which will bring the bees out. Since soap will work as an insecticide to some extent, it may kill some of the bees in the process but I still consider this preferable over the use of conventional insecticides IF people are unwilling to simply ignore the problem. The water-logged soils will hopefully deter the bees but again we're looking at activity that can take place over a few weeks.
Information, including pictures, of these bees and the "damage" that they cause can be found at:
You may start getting calls soon from people seeing either small mounds of soil in their yards or reporting "swarms" of bees. Schools and child care facility managers often panic because they think these are swarms that pose a health risk to the children. However, they are most likely the solitary bees such as the "colletids" and "andrenids" that often emerge this time of year.
The bees begin foraging for food and seeking out new nesting sites. This activity will continue for about the next two months, depending on the area of the state and the species of bees. They dig vertical
tunnels in the soil on which they make small side chambers where they provision pollen for their offspring. These bees are "solitary," which means there is no true colony. A lot of the "swarming" that
you see are males and females attempting to pair up and mate (tell people to think of their lawn as a big singles bar for bees). The bees frequently make small mounds in the soil, often where the soil is loose and vegetation may be sparse. You frequently see clusters of these nests, but each nest is made by an individual queen which does the work without the help of workers as occurs in a honey bee nest.
Although the damage can be unsightly with large numbers of mounds in the yard, it is mostly a cosmetic issue. The bigger problem is usually that people walking by panic because they assume that these are swarms of honey bees (or a similar bee) that will likely attack them if they venture too close to "the nest." Turf-nesting bees can sting but rarely do so, since they are not "social" and you don't have a large number of worker bees that trying to protect a nest. There is no "mass attack" as might occasionally occur with a close encounter of the yellowjacket kind (and it's still early in the year
for us to see any yellowjacket colonies out there).
These solitary bees are beneficial and should be left alone if possible. If customers want something done, you can apply almost anything that you typically use outdoors for perimeter treatments. One problem is that the bees often try to dig into the sand in play areas at schools, childcare facilities, etc. Of course, parents and teachers are concerned about stinging incidents, particularly if a child (or teacher) is hypersensitive to bee stings. In those instances, I still strongly discourage any chemical treatment, particularly in sandy play areas where kids come into direct contact with the soil (and which they might get in their mouths as well). However, facility managers have to weigh the safety of children (and staff) and the misinterpretation by the public of ignoring the problem as meaning they lack concern about the children.
If the bees try to nest in a sandbox, a simple solution is to cover it during the day but it will take a few weeks for you to deter most of the bees that show up over time. While the tarping approach isn't always successful, wider areas can be saturated with plain or soapy water which will bring the bees out. Since soap will work as an insecticide to some extent, it may kill some of the bees in the process but I still consider this preferable over the use of conventional insecticides IF people are unwilling to simply ignore the problem. The water-logged soils will hopefully deter the bees but again we're looking at activity that can take place over a few weeks.
Information, including pictures, of these bees and the "damage" that they cause can be found at:
Asian Needle Ants Pushing Their Way Through The Carolinas
http://www.newsobserver.com/2013/03/17/2751050/make-way-for-6-legged-samurai.html#storylink=misearch
Monday, February 25, 2013
Structural Pest Workshops - Week of March 4th
The NC Pest Management Association is offering structural pest workshops during the week of March 4th. One CCU in P-Phase and one CCU in W-Phase will be offered. The cost for the workshop is $5 for NCPMA members and $25 for non-members. The workshop schedule can be found by visiting the NCPMA website: http://www.ncpestmanagement.org/. Click on the link for "Spring Workshops".
Thursday, September 27, 2012
Kudzu Bugs (AGAIN)
We've had two reports (Scotland County and Union County) that kudzu bugs are moving out of soybean fields and congregating on structures, including homes and school buses. This move out of host plants was anticipated but perhaps not this soon. As to why it's happening now is pure speculation, but favorable weather, particularly early this year, likely contributed to this early exodus as the adult bugs head into reproductive diapause.
The kudzu bug's fall movement indoors is very similar to what we've experienced since the 1990’s with the Asian lady beetle. The major difference between the two insects is that the Asian lady beetle is actually beneficial as a biological control agent, chomping down on aphids and other plant-feeding insects. By contrast, the kudzu bug's primary food source (aside from kudzu) happens to be field crops, such as soybeans, where they can significantly impact yield. So, this pest packs a double-whammy for North Carolinians.
The kudzu bugs’ fondness of soybeans is one reason why we could see significant numbers of them invading homes and other buildings, even in rural areas. In more urban areas, there are plenty of other hosts such as wisteria and privet. The insects are quite mobile; they are capable of catching rides on wind currents, automobiles, trucks, trains and planes. This helps explain why this pest has managed to spread in from north-central Georgia and through most of South Carolina, North Carolina, and Virginia (plus west into Mississippi) in just about 3 years time.
At this point, we still do not have anything new to report in terms of recommendations to homeowners and businesses as to how they might address this problem. Kudzu bugs are attracted to light-colored surfaces but that certainly doesn't mean that brick buildings or those with dark-colored siding will escape the bug invasion. While most folks want shortcuts and easy solutions, there simply aren't any when it comes to the kudzu bug. The emphasis still has to be on exclusion because chemical control is still only partially effective and relies primarily on directly targeting the insects that are aggregating on surfaces. Preventive sprays are not recommended - because they simply won't be durable enough to last the weeks during which these insects will be actively seeking overwintering sites. If the situation is severe and you decide that pesticides are warranted, you can choose any of the common exterior insecticides labeled for application to buildings. Use targeted treatments of critical areas: windows and door frames, and some soffits. Be sure to read and follow all label directions carefully. Many of the exterior insecticides contain pyrethroid and new label changes restrict where and how the product may be applied.
If large numbers of kudzu bugs make it indoors, simply vacuum them up. The use of pesticides indoors is not warranted and will be largely ineffective in this case.
Again, we stress exclusion - plugging those holes that the bugs can use to enter homes and
businesses - as job #1.
For more information about kudzu bugs, please visit:
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/Urban/kudzubug.htm
The kudzu bug's fall movement indoors is very similar to what we've experienced since the 1990’s with the Asian lady beetle. The major difference between the two insects is that the Asian lady beetle is actually beneficial as a biological control agent, chomping down on aphids and other plant-feeding insects. By contrast, the kudzu bug's primary food source (aside from kudzu) happens to be field crops, such as soybeans, where they can significantly impact yield. So, this pest packs a double-whammy for North Carolinians.
The kudzu bugs’ fondness of soybeans is one reason why we could see significant numbers of them invading homes and other buildings, even in rural areas. In more urban areas, there are plenty of other hosts such as wisteria and privet. The insects are quite mobile; they are capable of catching rides on wind currents, automobiles, trucks, trains and planes. This helps explain why this pest has managed to spread in from north-central Georgia and through most of South Carolina, North Carolina, and Virginia (plus west into Mississippi) in just about 3 years time.
At this point, we still do not have anything new to report in terms of recommendations to homeowners and businesses as to how they might address this problem. Kudzu bugs are attracted to light-colored surfaces but that certainly doesn't mean that brick buildings or those with dark-colored siding will escape the bug invasion. While most folks want shortcuts and easy solutions, there simply aren't any when it comes to the kudzu bug. The emphasis still has to be on exclusion because chemical control is still only partially effective and relies primarily on directly targeting the insects that are aggregating on surfaces. Preventive sprays are not recommended - because they simply won't be durable enough to last the weeks during which these insects will be actively seeking overwintering sites. If the situation is severe and you decide that pesticides are warranted, you can choose any of the common exterior insecticides labeled for application to buildings. Use targeted treatments of critical areas: windows and door frames, and some soffits. Be sure to read and follow all label directions carefully. Many of the exterior insecticides contain pyrethroid and new label changes restrict where and how the product may be applied.
If large numbers of kudzu bugs make it indoors, simply vacuum them up. The use of pesticides indoors is not warranted and will be largely ineffective in this case.
Again, we stress exclusion - plugging those holes that the bugs can use to enter homes and
businesses - as job #1.
For more information about kudzu bugs, please visit:
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/Urban/kudzubug.htm
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